Journal

Evidence from the bench

Short reads on actives, regulation, and the uneasy space between a beautiful claim and a defensible one.

Actives deskMar 12, 20267 min read
Bakuchiol vs retinol: what the trials actually say
Plant alternatives are everywhere on shelf. A closer look at head-to-head data, endpoints that matter, and where marketing still outruns the papers.
ActivesEvidence
Formulation notesFeb 28, 20265 min read
Niacinamide percentages and the myth of more
Five percent, ten percent, twenty—labels escalate while dose–response in skin remains surprisingly flat for many consumer claims.
FormulationClaims
Policy watchFeb 14, 20266 min read
Microbiome claims meet the regulators
“Balances your skin flora” sounds scientific. Regulators increasingly ask what was measured—and whether the product alters the microbiome at all.
RegulationMicrobiome
PhotoprotectionJan 30, 20266 min read
Blue light protection: separating screen scare from SPF
HEV light claims surged with “digital aging” campaigns. Here is how to tell a sunscreen story from a screen-time story.
SPFClaims
Evidence ladderJan 9, 20268 min read
The peptide evidence ladder: signal vs story
From copper peptides to messenger peptides, the category thrives on elegant names. Ranking evidence keeps catalog reviews honest.
ActivesEvidence